550-style clam latches

Took a break from sanding this weekend and decided to try to make some 550-style clam latches.

Got pretty far along in the 9 or so hours I spent working from the junk pile. Why do this?

Three reasons:

1. It’s cool. Original Spyders had these latches you turned with a long churchkey; the replicas don’t. More legit-looking detail is just better.
2. The modern replicas use two Bug hood latches to hold the clam down—and they’re fiddly. It is reported that clams sometimes pop open on bumps, leaving just the wicked-cool leather straps to keep the clam from flying up and off and causing quite a ruckus out there on Highway 61. Adding a slot-lock as original can only make things better, from a purely practical perspective.
3. I’m tired of sanding.

Advertisement

Slow going

Weather’s been crappy and I’m not real happy. Not a lot of time to work on the car, rain and cold these weekends lately, and setbacks when I do work. That’s how it goes sometimes.

Installed the side mirror and made the gasket.

Firewall details (more rivets)

Past few days rigging up the throttle cable, a bell crank and some other stuff that will be attached to the back of the firewall.

Clam latches, done.

The rear latches on a fake 550 Spyder are usually just Beetle front hood latches, and this car is typical in that regard. On the Beetle they didn’t have to work so hard. The hood was a bit heavy and the shape of the nose tended to keep it down at speed. On the 550, not so much. The under-clam area is fixed to become a high-pressure system and, of course, the hinges are in the back, so if it pops up it becomes a sail.

A lot of replica owners rely on the leather hold-down straps that add such style to these cars. You hear complaints all the time that the latches “pop” when the car goes over a bump. I’m making this car not do that.